Since the first release of Grosset Piccadilly in 1993, these wines have made a powerful statement about the potential of the Piccadilly Valley in the Adelaide Hills, a sub-region so cool that it is often considered marginal for table wine. 'It's a sub-region that takes time to understand', says Grosset, 'and the wines can be exquisite'.

Grosset Piccadilly Chardonnay 2008

Only 850 cases produced

At first glance the 2008 Grosset Piccadilly Chardonnay may appear a departure from the style established by Grosset since 1992 - as it has an initial generosity that is atypical and is more forward than these chardonnays usually are. Jeffrey Grosset isn't at all surprised by this as he had an opportunity to judge at the 2009 Adelaide Hills Show and his impression of the 2008 Adelaide Hills chardonnays was that they looked smart and more generous than in most vintages.

 

Although the initial response to the 2008 Grosset Piccadilly Chardonnay may be of the wine's generosity of flavour, the overall impact is still one of restraint. There are gentle melony perfumes, a whisp of cedar; pure grapefruit, melon, white peach flavours; and tight structure, before lively slatey, minerally acidity to finish. It's low in alcohol, delicate, subtle and fine, and shows excellent integration of fruit and oak. The acidity is there to enable it to age well but it is not intrusive, even at this stage. As a generous and ready to drink wine, those of you with the 2007 in your cellar may well choose to drink the 2008 first. The 2007 is improving steadily but still shows more restraint than the 2008.

 

One of the delights of drinking wine that comes from the same site, and is made in the same way from year to year, is our ability to see the subtle imprint of vintage variation. The Piccadilly Valley, where this wine originates, is the second coolest place in South Australia; in fact it is often referred to as ‘marginal’ for growing wine grapes, yet the climate is very similar to Burgundy in France. It is no surprise then, that this wine should show vintage variation more profoundly than many of those wines from the warmer regions. Yet great wines typically come from these more challenging sites, challenging because to achieve the highest quality every year, by making the most of the variety, site and season, is difficult. To winemakers it is a place neither for the fainthearted, nor the formula minded, as each vintage tests one’s experience and skill.

 

General Cellaring Guide: Enjoy now or cellar 3-5 years.